Here’s What The Village Of The Discoverer of Mohenjo Daro Looks Like Today!

Rakhaldas Bandypadhyay or R. D. Banerji as he is known, is credited with the discovery of the Harappan ruins of Mohenjo Daro; and also celebrated for tracing the origin of the Bengali script. His ancestral home stands some kilometres from the city of Kolkata.

The Bongaon area of North 24 Parganas district in West Bengal, India, has given us eminent Bengali personalities (including Rakhaldas Bandopadhyay) like Bibhuti Bhushan Bandopadhyay, author of Pather Panchali (later adapted for an award winning film by Satyajit Ray) among his other renowned pieces of work in Bengali literature; and Dinobondhu Mitra, an eminent Bengali dramatist of the nineteenth century.

DSC_2910 2012_12_20_133241

This place is sacred with the footprints of Haridas Thakur or Yaban Haridas, disciple of Chaitanya Mahapravu and a prominent Vaishnava saint of the fifteenth century Bengal. It is also an important India-Bangladesh border checkpost, called Jayantipur Petrapole. Thousands of trucks transport goods to and from India and Bangladesh.

Being an explorer at heart, a sense of humility and awe engulf me as I enter the house of the discoverer, the man I have wanted to meet since I first read about Mohenjo Daro in my school History book.

DSC_2857 2012_12_20_083918

The Durga Mandap (a covered structure with pillars reserved for the annual prayers to the Goddess Durga) inside the house transports me to the late eighteenth century, when Mr. Banerji himself may have led the prayer proceedings.

DSC_2839 2012_12_20_081307

Rakhaldas Bandopadhyay’s statue (closeup view) at the entrance of the local high school named after him.

DSC_2904 2012_12_20_125138

The dilapidated front portion of Rakhaldas Bandopadhyay’s house (seen from the inside) cry for more attention.

DSC_2843 2012_12_20_081611

While two more mansions that Mr. Bandopadhyay owned are destroyed now, the bricks of those the ruined houses were used to construct a High School named after Rakhaldas Bandopadhyay, a fitting tribute to the man who changed the history of our civilization through his discovery. Here’s a picture of Chhaygharia Rakhaldas High School, named after the man.

DSC_2900 2012_12_20_124852

Dakat Kali Bari is another unique attraction of the town. Literally translated as the Abode of the Goddess Kali of the Dacoits, this temple is well-known for being a place of worship for all the armed robbers in the area. Care for a quick conversation with the worshipers here?

DSC_2914 2012_12_20_134117

Saat Bhai Kali Tala – The Kali Temple of Seven Brothers, offers lovely photo opportunities to the shutter lovers.

DSC_2989 2012_12_20_141359

The rail over-bridge at Saat Bhai Kali Tala is another great place to sit back and soak in the ambience.

DSC_2944 2012_12_20_140114

I spent about one and a half days to capture the essence of this sub-divisional town, but I should acknowledge that I was able to capture only a fragment of the rich heritage. I yearn for another opportunity to come back to this place to document and present more insights of this place.

Ask Alpaviram for a day-trip to this lesser known destination from Kolkata with me, if you want to come along.

– Text and images by Goutam Dey 

3 Replies to “Here’s What The Village Of The Discoverer of Mohenjo Daro Looks Like Today!”

  1. Your writing is really good one. But miss an important part of the most important era of bongaon history that is nil bidroho.
    There near to that Jayantipur and iskon mandir, you can get the hakka.. Where nil planters British used to do the brutal justice and torture the unwanted farmers.its called kachari I guess. Even few Nilkuthi also there.
    Next time when you come.or write please mention that and my another request to you to mention the details about the college Dinobandho Mitra Mahabidyalaya, which after the name of the famous writer of Nildarpan, Dinobandho Mitro, and his home also in same condition.
    And bongaon high school is there… Where bibhutibhusan bandapadhya was one of the teachers. And it was playing active role during the naxal time and it has lots of memory of two dark history of Bengal. 1971 Bangladesh freedom fight and 2000 flood of Bengal.

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Thanks Lina for the additional information. Why don’t you write an article along with some images on the information you’ve provided. I’d request the moderator of this page to include your inputs as well. Moreover, I’m very much interested to visit the places you’ve mentioned. Do you live in Bongaon? Could you please take us to those places at our next visit?


Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s